Time-Lapse Photography How-To Guide


Time-lapse photography compresses hours or days into seconds, revealing changes invisible to normal perception. Clouds racing across sky, flowers opening, construction progressing, stars wheeling overhead—these transformations become visible through time-lapse. Here’s how to create effective time-lapse sequences.

Understanding the Basics

Time-lapse works by capturing still images at intervals—typically 1-30 seconds apart—then playing them back at video frame rates (24-30 fps). The interval between shots determines how much time compression occurs in the final video.

Calculate your needs before shooting. If you want a 10-second final video at 24fps, you need 240 frames. If your subject changes significantly over 2 hours, shoot one frame every 30 seconds. This math matters for planning.

I use this formula: (Desired video length in seconds × frame rate) ÷ capture interval in seconds = hours of real time needed. This backwards calculation helps plan shoots realistically.

Equipment Requirements

A sturdy tripod is absolutely essential. Any movement during capture ruins time-lapse sequences. Your tripod needs to withstand wind, accidental bumps, and long duration without shifting. I use heavier, more stable tripods for time-lapse than regular photography.

Intervalometer triggers cameras at specified intervals automatically. Many modern cameras have built-in intervalometers. Older cameras need external intervalometers—simple versions cost $30-50. This automation frees you from pressing the shutter manually thousands of times.

Batteries for extended shooting need consideration. Long time-lapses drain batteries. Bring spares or use AC adapters when shooting near power sources. Nothing is more frustrating than your camera dying 80% through a multi-hour time-lapse.

Memory cards must handle hundreds or thousands of images. I use large, fast cards to ensure the camera never runs out of space mid-sequence. Calculate expected frame count and verify you have adequate capacity before starting.

Neutral density filters extend exposure times in bright conditions, creating motion blur that makes time-lapse sequences look smoother. Moving water, clouds, and people benefit from this smoothing rather than appearing as discrete frozen frames.

Camera Settings

Manual mode is required for time-lapse. Automatic exposure causes flickering as the camera adjusts between frames. Lock exposure, white balance, and focus manually before starting the sequence.

Determine exposure by metering the scene and setting consistent values. If lighting will change dramatically (sunrise, sunset), expose for mid-range conditions or the most critical part of the sequence.

Aperture around f/8 provides adequate depth of field for most subjects while maintaining reasonable shutter speeds. Too wide risks focus issues if anything shifts slightly; too narrow requires very long exposures.

ISO should be as low as possible (100-200) to minimize noise, especially in sequences you’ll view on large screens. Time-lapse frames are often small in final output, but starting with clean images provides flexibility.

I shoot RAW for time-lapse despite the storage requirements. RAW gives you exposure latitude and ability to apply consistent colour grading across the entire sequence in post-processing.

Interval Selection

Fast-moving subjects need shorter intervals. Clouds moving visibly should be captured every 2-5 seconds. People walking through spaces need 1-2 second intervals to appear smooth rather than jumping.

Slow changes require longer intervals. Construction projects might shoot every 5-15 minutes. Flowers opening could be every 2-10 minutes. Plants growing might be hourly or daily shots over weeks.

General rule: interval should be half the time it takes for visible change to occur. If clouds cross the frame in 10 seconds, shoot every 5 seconds. This provides smooth progression rather than jarring jumps.

Subject Ideas

Cloud movements work beautifully for time-lapse, showing weather systems and light changes invisible to normal perception. Position yourself with interesting foreground elements and dramatic skies.

Sunrises and sunsets compress the golden hour light changes into seconds, emphasizing the colour shifts and shadow movements. Start shooting 30-45 minutes before sunrise or after sunset to capture the full range.

Urban scenes with traffic and pedestrian movement show the rhythm and flow of city life. Busy intersections, train stations, or markets all provide interesting time-lapse subjects.

Star trails and night sky rotations create spectacular time-lapse sequences. Point at Polaris for classic circular trails or away from the pole for linear movement. You need dark skies away from city light pollution.

Construction and transformation projects document change over time. Whether it’s a building rising, renovations progressing, or seasonal landscape changes, time-lapse compresses long-term processes effectively.

Special Considerations

Flicker from aperture blades moving slightly between frames is a common problem. Some cameras offer exposure smoothing modes. Alternatively, shoot in aperture priority at widest aperture (no aperture movement) or use manual lenses that don’t change aperture.

Focus should be set manually and then taped to prevent any drift during long sequences. Autofocus might shift slightly between frames, creating distracting focus breathing in the final video.

White balance locked manually prevents colour shifts between frames. Auto white balance responding to changing light creates unpleasant flickering and colour jumps.

Weather protection matters for outdoor time-lapses lasting hours. Rain covers protect cameras and lenses. I’ve left cameras operating overnight for star trail time-lapses, and adequate weather protection prevented moisture damage.

Processing Time-Lapse Sequences

Import image sequences to dedicated time-lapse software (LRTimelapse is popular) or video editing applications that support image sequences. These tools process hundreds of images into video files.

Colour grade consistently across all frames. Apply adjustments to the entire sequence rather than processing individual images. LRTimelapse offers tools specifically for gradual transitions during changing light conditions.

Deflicker tools help smooth exposure variations between frames. Even with manual exposure, subtle differences can occur. Deflickering algorithms analyze the sequence and smooth these variations.

Export settings matter for final quality. I typically export at 1080p or 4K resolution, 24 or 30fps, using H.264 or H.265 codecs for reasonable file sizes with good quality.

Motion Time-Lapse

Adding camera movement during time-lapse creates more dynamic sequences. Motorized sliders move cameras incrementally between frames, adding parallax and depth to time-lapses.

This advanced technique requires specialized equipment—time-lapse sliders, motion control heads, or robotic systems. Results can be spectacular but complexity and cost increase substantially.

I started with static time-lapses and added motion later once basic techniques were mastered. Learn fundamentals before investing in motion control equipment.

Common Problems and Solutions

Wind moving the camera slightly during long sequences creates shaky results. Use heavier tripods, lower centre of gravity, hang weight from the tripod centre column, or shield the setup from wind.

Running out of memory or battery mid-sequence is devastating. Always calculate requirements conservatively and exceed them. Bring extra batteries and memory cards even if you think you have enough.

People interacting with your camera setup can ruin sequences. Shooting in busy areas risks curious people touching equipment or blocking the lens. Choose locations where the camera can operate undisturbed or monitor it during shooting.

Changing light conditions challenge exposure settings. Sunrise/sunset time-lapses span huge exposure ranges. Some photographers use ND filters on automatic removal systems that adjust filtration as light changes.

Long-duration time-lapses in public spaces might draw attention. Be prepared to explain what you’re doing if approached by security or police. Most locations allow photography from public spaces, but private property requires permission.

Leaving equipment unattended carries theft risk. In questionable locations, lock gear to tripods and tripods to fixed objects. Or monitor equipment during shooting. Losing camera gear to theft is a costly learning experience.

Advanced Techniques

Holy Grail time-lapse captures day-to-night transitions, starting in bright daylight and ending in darkness. This requires gradually adjusting exposure during the sequence—extremely challenging but visually spectacular.

Hyperlapse involves moving camera positions between frames, often over substantial distances. Rather than smooth slider motion, hyperlapse jumps distances while maintaining consistent framing on a subject. This creates dramatic perspective changes.

Focus stacking time-lapse combines focus bracketing with time-lapse for macro subjects that change over time while maintaining extended depth of field. Extremely technical but possible with dedicated software and planning.

Learning Approach

Start with simple subjects and short sequences. A 30-minute sunset time-lapse provides quick feedback and learning without committing hours to uncertain results. Short sequences teach fundamentals without excessive time investment.

Experiment with intervals to learn what works for different subjects. Shoot the same scene at different intervals on different days, comparing results. This hands-on experimentation builds intuition faster than theoretical understanding.

Study excellent time-lapse work online. Vimeo and YouTube feature spectacular examples. Analyze what makes them effective—subject choice, framing, duration, motion, light. Apply these observations to your work.

The Payoff

Time-lapse requires patience, planning, and technical precision. Sequences demand hours of shooting for seconds of final video. But the results reveal perspectives on time and change that normal photography or video can’t capture.

I find time-lapse photography meditative—setting up carefully, starting the sequence, and waiting while the camera captures change. There’s satisfaction in patient observation that rushed photography doesn’t provide.

The technical challenges are real but manageable with proper preparation. Master the basics, plan carefully, and accept that some sequences will fail. Those that succeed create compelling visual experiences that justify the effort invested in this unique photographic approach.